First Taste: Vicinity in Los Gatos is an impressive, autobiographical odyssey from NY to California.

If you could take a bite of Tomales Bay, what would be the taste of its foggy mornings and coastal dunes, its briny waters, the exhalations of its wildlife?

What would be the flavor of the dank, primeval aliveness of the redwoods at Nisene Marks State Park or Mount Lassen’s now-hushed, fire-seething volcanic landscape?

For chef Julian Silvera, a New York kid who never even saw the forest for himself until he was in his 20s, they are singularly distinctive—edible snapshots that form the musculature of his work at the new fine dining restaurant Vicinity in Los Gatos.

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